FURNITURE AND BETTER BURGERS

A family meeting decided early that a late power-breakfast at Burger City was the perfect way to start a busy day by the pool. This was preceded by a trip to the stationary store to get more drawing pens (mine had expired in the heat) and visit the ATM although Burger City do take credit cards. Excellent fare and good quality diet cola. The atmosphere convivial populated by the usual clientele harried parents and ungracious offspring.

The highlight of the day (so far) was my visit to the furniture and word-working workshop at the end of our road. Two friendly chaps allowed me in to make a drawing and some photographs. Most hospitable, as I drew, a nice Turkish tea was placed in front of me on an upturned canister of wood-glue. What I could not work out was that the some of the walls were tiled and there was a huge vat in one corner and a nine-foot high press-like object that could not figure in the world of woodwork. I was told that before 1975 the place was and olive oil mill. The wheels of progress turn . . .

HILL FIRE AT BELLAPAIX - looking back to Cyprus

Well today has been an adventure. Bellapaix Abbey must be only a forty-minute walk from the village so I decided to try. Twenty minutes into the climb I was out of the village and picking my way through a thistle invested ravine! The reward was an exceptional side on profile view of the north side of this gothic wonder nestling in the mountainside. Along another track, a side road, the main road and then I entered Bellapaix village at last.

Then pandemonium, on the main street, two fire engines, a police car and then there was a big pall of smoke and the thunderous crackle of flame. In the valley-ravine below the abbey, not far from where I had been 30 minutes earlier, a huge fire had broken out. As I write this water bearing helicopters, flown over from mainland Turkey, is running a water-bearing shuttle between the sea and our precious mountain. Quel dommage!

GRABBING THE PAN HANDLE

Rose early and by 0730 on the road heading northeast towards and then along the Karpaz Peninsula known as the ‘pan handle’ of Cyprus. A sixty-two mile trip on now made excellent roads (last years tracks along the sea were pretty yet fearful). The early part of the day: shadows cast long across a red and sage green landscape that darkens blue-green as mountains rise up on the south east of our route.

Blue sea to our left or to our right sparkles en route. A brave journey without a map, a situation resolved as we reached Yenierekoy. Here after buying stamps from a happy post master (also an excuse to change a large note) I was furnished with two excellent maps by the Tourist Office next door; thus endowed, several jewel-like basilicas were discovered and drawn culminating with the Ayios Philon Church dedicated to Philon, the saint who converted the people of these parts to Christianity in the 4th century.

North Cyprus Return to Salamis

We went again to Salamis a huge archaeological site that goes back to 11^th C BC founded by Teucer who could not return home after the Trojan War because he failed to avenge his brother Ajax. It is also associated with Assyrian Kings and was ruled by Ptolemy Alexander the Great’s foremost general. Thence it became a Roman province and St Barnabas who brought Christianity to Cyprus was stoned to death her. Salamis was abandoned during the Arab invasions of the 7^th century, as the city was in decline its harbour having silted up.

The site is vast. Excavations began in 1952. We saw a team at work last year and were able to look at their uncovering of another section of roman baths. Yet excavations have only uncovered a fraction (theatre, gymnasium, basilica, agora, and forum) of what must have been a huge and thriving community who’s necropolis covers seven square kilometres.

The place has a wild, delightfully unkempt feel as sea breezes displace some of the heat. Arrival at an early hour in the morning is recommended!

North Cyprus Bellapaix Abbey

THE FINEST GOTHIC IN THE NEAR EAST

Having visited most of the cathedrals in England we are finely attuned to the delights of gothic architecture. Bellapaix Abbey, almost walk-able from the Villa, is billed as one of the finest pieces of gothic. Built on the side of a mountain, this twelfth-century monastery is a fine testament to the Lusignan period (the Lusignans from France, a family that came to control the Kingdoms of Jerusalem and of Cyprus).

The Abbey, with its pretty church appears, to float above the landscape. The masonry work of its cloister arches and tracery (most of which is fractured and is now silhouetted against the sky like old, poor, broken teeth) is so light and delicate.

Chill out Cyprus

Today we went into Girne to see the castle, with a wonderful view across the harbour. This redoubtable fortress was home to the Hellenistic Romans, Crusaders, Lusignans (Guy de Lusignan was a cousin to Richard I) Venetians and then Ottomans from 1570.

Cyprus is close to (clockwise) Turkey Syria, Lebanon, Israel, Egypt and Libya and Greece. Given those countries have over the last 2000 years been embroiled in conflict army commanders need a nice place; lush, verdant, accessible and defendable to send their troops for R&R. Chill out in Cyprus.

North Cyprus - The precursor to Ibizia

Today we went into Girne to see the castle, with a wonderful view across the harbour. This redoubtable fortress was home to the Hellenistic Romans, Crusaders, Lusignans (Guy de Lusignan was a cousin to Richard I) Venetians and then Ottomans from 1570.

Cyprus is close to (clockwise) Turkey Syria, Lebanon, Israel, Egypt and Libya and Greece. Given those countries have over the last 2000 years been embroiled in conflict army commanders need a nice place; lush, verdant, accessible and defendable to send their troops for R&R. Chill out in Cyprus.

North Cyprus - Vogue Club

Midday we went in search of a beach to adopt. Not visited last year but this we drove 7 km East and discovered the Vogue Club. A huge and quite deserted beach resort; with different terraces, bars and sun loungers strewn here there and everywhere, punctuated by red yellow and orange Agila sun umbrellas. We seem to be the only one of a several families there and were given 50% off the entry price of TL10, as it was our first visit.

The Vogue Club became busier; eventually I counted 20 people in the warm sea of the tiny bay in which the place sits. The place looks like it was planned to be a much busier. Part of it looks like a hotel, uncompleted and another accommodation block, grey concrete nestles up against that. Behind a huge, lovely swimming pool, there is a huge amphitheatre with lighting gantries, possibly for the several music nights advertised?

Anyway we loved it and stayed for four hours, frequently cooling off in the sea and trying out any many sun loungers as we had the energy for.

North Cyprus - delicious dereliction

I walked into the village. Did a drawing of a lovely deserted house or rather old house fallen into disrepair, I built a fantasy about it belonging to an old, long gone, family and so not in habited by since the troubles.

The climate makes buildings, fabric and paint age so gracefully.

Northern Cyprus - Last night a cleaner saved my life

Arrived Saturday evening to find the villa in a two and eight!

Two hours later, the four of us, with what cleaning equipment came to hand and buckets of dettol had the place almost habitable. The major impact came from stowing old carpets and bric-a-brac in every available cupboard. All of a sudden the place began to look lovely.

Next day the cleaner came to finish the job.

Northern Cyprus -Good enough to eat

Its is great to return to a place. In this case Northern Cyprus as we could not find oranges in the super market, OMG, I remembered (from last year) the roadside fresh produce shop run by an English lady from Stoke on Trent so bought oranges from the lady and some onions.

Brighton Rocks

My show in October, The Sea, the Sea 2, at the Circus Gallery in London marks my return to the coast.

This will be a very English exhibition of work; capturing all that is best about the beach and the sea. The pier is very much a part of our sea and shore. Brighton Pier with its beach of peebles, fish and chips, kiss-me-quick, Pie, scary dodgem cars, deck chairs.

The show opens October 20th and runs until mid November.

Dubai fell out of my book

The other day I pulled a book from the shelf, one I must have been reading last November.

Out tumbled a boarding pass from a one day trip to Dubai for BBC work with a lovely sales team out there. The memories came flooding back.

Secret Regent's Park

Discovered only day's ago, a secret garden in The Regent's Park and the entrance to which most of us will miss! Such colour! Colours of high Summer.

With a hey , and a ho and a hey-nonny-no

Shakespeare - As You Like It -

Act 5, Scene 3

ith a hey, and a ho, and a hey-nonny-no