November, warmth, sun and crowds. Everyone enjoying themselves. The selfie-nistas are out in force.
This is Rome.
We are here, M-F, quite wonderful, scrub that. It is wonderful.
Rediscovering the familiars (Pantheon) discovering the new (Trajan Markets Museum) and coping with frustration – the places we most want to see are closed – what they don’t tell you on their websites don’t tell you.
Rome: carbonara central.
Hotel is two minutes from the Trevi Fountain and five minutes’ walk (in different directions) from two very important things.
#1 A remarkable collection of Renaissance paintings - Palazzo Barberini houses the Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Antica, one of the most important painting collections in Italy. We had a wonderful last morning floating round the rooms housing this collection. Sun streaming in through the windows.
# 2 A wonderful exhibition of the French painter Raoul Dufy at the Palazzo Cipolla.
The Dufy was a very extensive show including his fashion designs, fabrics, tapestry and ceramic work. Everything was touched with light, colour, and complete exuberance. The show was entitled "The painter of joy" and indeed his work was a delight. I bounced out of that lovely colour rush the perfect antidote to a drab early UK winter. Note to self: do some investigations into this exciting painter who was influenced by Matisse.
The painter of joy
Palazzo Barberini. Well, just getting so close to some fabulous Renaissance art. (Train strikes prevent me going to London to go to the National Gallery.) As soon as I got home I got out a book on Renaissance art in Italy from the public library and will work my way through this. Also I discovered or rather Sian discovered that there is a whole host of National Gallery lunchtime lectures on YouTube. And I have been watching these - absolutely thrilling - . So there's another source of art education if you want it.
Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Antica
A decorated panel in the private chapel
Sian discovered this wonderful ceiling in the Palazzo
Both experiences are so different from the self-obsessed, joyless contemporary art are served up by many of today’s galleries. As I write Max Hetzler has emailed me about a show of torn posters in Paris by the French artist Raymond Hains. https://www.maxhetzler.com/exhibitions/raymond-hains-affiches-lacerees-torn-posters-2022
Affiches Lacérées / Torn Posters
Paris: 46 & 57, rue du Temple, 75004, 26 November 2022 – 5 January 2023