HAI VAN PASS – HIGH AUXIETY

This is not a road for people who suffer from vertigo! I lurched in the front passenger seat between stomach wrenching fear and hugging my knees throughout this 21 km long mountain pass on Vietnam National Road 1A.

In places Hai Van was covered the mists that rise from the sea, reducing visibility and my anxiety

The twisting road on the pass has long been a challenge for drivers (no ours though) traveling between the cities of Huế and Đà Nẵng. I was relieved when we took the Hai Van Tunnel on the return journey back to Da Nang.

The Hai Van Pass has been of major tactical importance, the north-south divide. Since the Second Century he who controls the pass controls the country. I was pleased, eventually, to regain control of my fear on the downwards stretch of this road, which Jeremy Clarkson described as one of the finest coastal roads in the world.

Working the fields

Fishermen on the estuary

Pulling away from the bank

FOOT NOTE

This was part of a wonderful two-week stay in Vietnam in July, we were based in Hoi An, half way up the countries long and exciting coast, about 1000 km north of Ho Chi Min City (Saigon).

HUE – A CAPITAL CITY

entering the citadel

It is a long way, three hours each way by car, from Hoi An to Huế, a city that was home to the Nguyễn dynasty in Vietnam.

Hue dominated southern Vietnam from the 17th to the 19th century. Apart from tussles with the French, its rulers kept Huế as the national capital until 1945. Many parts of Hue were damaged during the War (1964 – 76) because the Communists launched Tet offensive just down the road.

a palace reception room all gold and red

A resting place tomb and mausoleum for Tu Doc

Now UNESCO has been busy; the area is festooned with World Heritage Sites. Nguyễn emperors built the Citadel, a large, walled site on the north side of the Perfume River. This is a sort of live-in Westfield’s: It had housing for the emperors, concubines, and those close friends as well as places to make, shop and store one’s wealth.

In a light drizzle we drove on to Tự Đức’s tomb and mausoleum. He was one of the last of the Nguyễn clan and blessed with 104 wives. A very private person, he built this place with 10,000 soldiers in four years and then had them all put to death to keep the location a secret.

Burial Chamber with spirits guarding 

Pagoda 

The arresting Thiên Mụ Pagoda is the largest in Huế and with its seven stories is one of the biggest in Vietnam. It is the official symbol of the city and sits on the northern bank of the Perfume River. It was raining hard when we arrived and with difficulty I was just able to draw it in my book. I left the place very wet and somewhat grumpy as a stallholder nearby where we were parked tried to charge me to use the WC.

We regained our driver and then made the long journey back into the Hai Van Pass.

FOOT NOTE

This was part of a wonderful two-week stay in Vietnam in July, we were based in Hoi An, half way up the countries long and exciting coast, about 1000 km north of Ho Chi Min City (Saigon).

MY SON - A bumpy ride

One of the bumpiest bus rides of my life took us to My Son

My Son is a cluster of mostly ruined Hindu temples, rising up through the undergrowth and trees. They were built between the 4th and the 14th century AD by the kings of Champa dynasty.

Some seventy different temples or what is left of them are scattered around this site; some standing proud, others just poking round through the undergrowth. We were amongst hoards of tourists stamping a path and stubbing toes, expecting to see Lara Croft round the next corner.

Our guide was careful to get our attention:

“When I talk you listen to me. If you no like you go. Are you clear everyone follow me”

It is claimed that U.S.A.F. destroyed a large majority of My Son in 1969. A story trotted out by every tour guide at every opportunity:

“Now, look here, American bombs, we found them in 1981”

My Son is regarded one of the foremost Hindu temple complexes in Southeast Asia. Like a lot of places round here it has UNESCO’s stamp of approval. 

CUA DAI– BIG BEACH

Most days we cycled the 4 km to Cua Dai. The name literally means the 'big sea mouth' situated north-east of Hoi An.

Cua Dai is blessed with fine white sand. Its clear and blue waters stretch all the way to Da Nang some 30 km away.

Families, Russians and other Europeans gather here for R and R. Locals come for recreation later in the afternoon after work or school. Everyone enjoys the seafood specialities, which we saw these being prepared by a legion of kitchen ladies out at the back of each restaurant and boys who ensure the tanks to crabs and huge lobsters are topped up with water.

FOOT NOTE

This was part of a wonderful two-week stay in Vietnam in July, we were based in Hoi An, half way up the countries long and exciting coast, about 1000 km north of Ho Chi Min City (Saigon).