This is a Norman treasure trove |
This
trip was to see the final few churches in Jenkins’ survey of churches in
Berkshire, England's Thousand Best
Churches by Simon Jenkins pub. 1999. Forward we went, west along the M4 and
turning off at J13, Chris, Ricardo and I.
CHURCH
1
On
the banks of the River Kennet sits St
Mark and Luke in the hamlet of Avington. By all accounts and records this
is a Norman treasure. This is isolated place and in private hands, although
opens occasionally. We believed it to be locked, however Christophe turned the
ancient door handle and we were inside.
This
lonely gem is Norman; from its porch to its great sagging arch that separates
Nave from Chancel. And on this arch are remarkable carvings, beakheads and
monsters. Beakhead ornaments, are found decorating the arches of Norman and
Romanesque churches in many parts of Britain. They are one of the most bizarre and
intriguing forms of sculpture - terrifying heads of birds, beasts or monsters
stare down from the arch, as if to frighten the congregation!
CHURCH
2 . . .
St Thomas Fettiplace and his Portuguese wife Beatrice |
The
second church in another meadow by a river, the Lambourn, is St Thomas the village East Shefford. To
get to the church you pass the reconstituted manor house and the suspicious
scrutiny of its gardener.
The Churches Conservation Trust has nimbly
restored the church. A light touch made all the more enjoyable on this sunny
day. And the sun poured into the south chapel and the alabaster resting place
of St Thomas Fettiplace and his Portuguese wife Beatrice; Whilst angels weep
around the sides of this gentle knight’s tomb. There is lots to love here,
included a mural of the Nativity with the Kings. There is also post-reformation
text used to blot out pre-reformation murals.
After
an excellent lunch at The Swan at Great Shefford we went to our final church,
St Mary Aldworth.
CHURCH
3
The ‘English Decorated’ period ran from 1250 to
the outbreak of the Black Death, 1340. This was a period where English stonemasons and
carvers were walking on water.
They
created tall, willowy, windows and columns and other pieces. All where Kate Moss-like; slender confections
in stone and now found throughout England and Scotland. This was a period was architects
and stonemasons simply showing off!
St
Mary the Virgin, Aldsworth is nowhere near anywhere. However it does boast
wonderful Decorated carvings around a
set of effigies of the De La Beche*
family. There are eight tombs in total, and as we entered in awe, several were
rinsed in an early afternoon November sun.
St Mary with Decorated dormitory of knights and their ladyes. Sleep gentlefolk you have earned your sweet
rest.
Oh
and here is the address: St Mary the Virgin, Aldsworth Bell Lane, Aldworth, Berkshire RG8 9SB
An effigies of a De La Beche |
*After
Duke William of Normandy crossed the English Channel and took London, his
supporters followed in search of lands and wealth. The de la Beche family was
among them. They received numerous properties and built two castles, one of
which was in Aldworth.