GUERNSEY - TRAVEL JOYS, NEAT CABIN, GOING UNDERGROUND

You always remember your first trip after lockdown. Safety briefing, to which you pay attention, babies bawling make you consider an upgrade and people taking an unusual interest in anti-motion sickness bracelets. The later were to become essential must-wears within the next hour of the three hour crossing from Poole to St Peter’s Port Guernsey. There were many passengers wobbling their way to the toilets clutching those nice white paper bags.

BEFORE THE GREAT CHUNDER

Uncle Tim’s Cabin.

Our billet is a delightful and commodious cabin on the north-east of the island – Vale. Driving up we noticed a huge acreage of glasshouses. All empty, the remains of Guernsey’s once huge tomato growing industry. Huge until the Dutch had a go at the same idea. Made mental note to explore the one next door to us with a camera.

 

Going underground.

One and a quarter miles of tunnel and low cavernous rooms. Part ammo dump, part military hospital. Dipping, cold and glistening in the light shed by ancient yet atmospheric bulkhead lights. Somewhere floats the music of Édith Piaf*. We are in a museum, a wonderful museum. The German Underground Hospital. Built by slave labour imported by the Nazis from across Europe.  http://www.germanundergroundhospital.co.uk

One and a quarter miles of tunnel

Part ammo dump, part military hospital

PLENTY OF SPACE 

Long Gone Guernsey’s Toms

One of the most striking sights on the island is the sheer volume of empty and often collapsing and overgrown glasshouses . Next door to our billet is a huge one.

Just next door

There are nine within a half-mile radius of our place. Often they are flanked by a chimney stack and a packing shed.

The Packing Shed 

These glass mausoleums are what is left of an industry that started in1860. At that time the English discovered that tomatoes (a native of South America) were edible. 

This island’s mild maritime climate (southernmost part of the British Isles) was just the place to grow them. And a declining ship building industry meant a ready supply of carpenters to knock out greenhouses.

 By 1950 seven percent of Guernsey was under glass tended by two thousand commercial growers (total island pop. 45,347). Ten years later half a billion tomatoes were being picked and packed and sent to England. However years later still Dutch growers were contending for England’s tom-love.  Then in 1979 the oil crisis, sparked by the Iranian revolution, was the final factor in the industry’s collapse. 

Collapse

 

Now all that is left are acres of glasshouses empty or often full of weeds and brambles trying to elbow their way to freedom. The States of Guernsey Island Development Plan is providing some help to owners to enable these sites to enjoy a new lease of life. 

Out of control 

Bidding for freedom 

EVERY DAY’S A SCHOOL DAY

‘Every day’s a school day’ is a favourite axiom of Siân’s. 

A Friday or so back I was fortunate enough to have the opportunity to run a painting and drawing workshop in central London for nine talented young people. 

Class at work 

I was working alongside Lorena Zurbano, she is a driving force behind Metaforlearning. https://www.metaforlearning.org  This is community that organises and encourages learning outside the school room for young people of all ages, they meet regularly as a community and consider young people equal to adults. 

Equal to adults 

I arrived at my workshop with materials, a desire to inspire and bits and pieces for a still life set up we could all draw and/or paint. It had been a while. I ran a series of online art workshops during lockdown. Prior to that  workshops in Beaconsfield Library. All activities were hugely rewarding.

 

Working alongside Lorena we had a great session lot of exciting work created by everyone! There is a of pictures here https://www.metaforlearning.org/gallery-1

 

The magic part came when everyone in the class started really engaging in what they were doing, which was not necessarily painting the still life that I had set up. Some were looking outside the windows or working on their own personal ideas with pen paper inks and watercolours. Marvellous. 

 

LEARNING: 

When delegates 'take over' the session/workshop, the trainer/ facilitator/teacher can step back confident that learning/discovering among those that matter is really taking place.

LONGRIDGE FARM - OLD STONES LOVED AGAIN

 

Longridge Farm built in 1809

 

I cycled down the track to have a look. White, grey, umber, blue, sienna, yellow, two-hundred year old stones basking in the afternoon sun.

 

Dogs that greet you and are keen to make friends. A farm once neglected but now loved to distraction by D & N. I was caught up in the tangible pride of their ambitions and affections for this place. Practical changes big and small are made here every day.

 

And a welcome for a stranger who is in awe of the undertaking but no longer a stranger. Scooped up in the sheer joy of this place. 

 

And sounds. As I draw insects buzz, incessant swallow and bees. 

 

And a grunt?

Oh yes, it is either Florence, Flora or perhaps Felicity, three pigs walk up to greet us.

The chickens are far too busy to say hello to anybody this afternoon. No so the geese, and one is bound to lay the egg that shines I am sure. As bold as brass they approach me. Then with guardsmen’s precision follow me. Just to make sure.

 

Slate new and old glistens in the sun. The dairy parlour and attendant buildings are being given a new lease of life. All designed for cows and calves to be happy when they arrive. Imagine, will then the milk be champagne?

 

Longridge, full of purpose and a pleasure a this strange keen to chronicle this transformation.

The new owners are custodians with huge ambitions and affections for this place

ST DAVID’S HEAD WITH TOUR GUIDE STEVE

A favourite place of William, Duke of Clarence

Out on the headlands again with map maker and professional guide Steve Jones. High sun and temperatures to match. Dust on the coastal path turning the thistle heads a threatening grey. 

 

Lots of people wearing very little, room enough for all and everyone greets everyone and makes way. 

 

We look out to sea. The coast at low tide, rock formations of blue, pink and grey slither down into an impossible turquoise water.

 

Off Ramsey Island, smaller isles romantic names; Bishops and Clerks eight islands to the west. Bitches Rocks, a reef that stretches to Ramsey Sound, a notorious stretch of water that have been unfaithful to too many sailors. On a spring tide the tidal race can reach 18 knots.   

 

Across these Pembrokeshire waters came traders from the Middle ages: Iron France, northern Spain and the Forest of Dean.  The West Country also provided apples, pears and walnuts. Woad was transported from Picardy to dye cloth. Exported where locally produced hides, salt-fish, butter, cheese, corn and wool.₁

 

These traders may have landed in Whitesands Bay. Now White Sands is crowded with holiday makers, spread out like chicken fillets on the world’s largest griddle.

 

Turning inland and we walk a steep narrow path, part of which is Marsh or would be normally.  On top we gain a track and see a house and farm bounded by telegraph poles: Upper Treleddyn Farmhouse. A favourite place of William, Duke of Clarence, in the years before his accession as King William IV in 1830. He’d pop quite often to visit his mistress, Dorothy Bland, aka the London actress Mrs. Jordan.₂

The coast at low tide, rock formations of blue, pink and grey slither down into an impossible turquoise water.

 

We are walking distance from St David’s Cathedral now and ah, there’s the car. This has been another brilliant walk with Steve, as he carefully unlocks the nature, history and landscape of ground he knows so well. And, again, can hardly wait for the next one.

https://www.peninsulaguides.co.uk

 

 

SCOURCES & A SPECIAL THANK YOU TO 

_1.

https://www.pembrokeandmonktonhistory.org.uk/medievalPembroke.html

©Pembroke and Monkton Local History Society

Registered Charity no: 1158530

 

_2.

http://www.pembrokeshirehistoricalsociety.co.uk/treginnis-cross-hypothesis/

©Pembrokeshire Historical Society Karl Johansen’s article.

 

PENDINE IN MY POCKET

Pendine in my Pocket. An affectionate photo essay.

Schools out, down to the beach, from July and on into August Pendine buzzes. 

"I must go down to the sea again" - Walter de la Mere

 

There’s a jolly man in a fluorescent yellow vest who will let you park on the beach for a fiver. The R.N.L.I Baywatch team are down there before you, with the safe bathing flags flattering.

A very jolly man, give him a fiver.

Liam, Maisy and Harry in case of need.

 

Ice creams for sale. 

The ice cream van cruises slowly along the beach back-and-forth 

so you don’t have to hike for your 99 Flake. 

Cornetto Centrale

 

Pendine is a place to gather, who are those people with cones on their heads? 

Perhaps it is a special conical celebration? 

Conical Carnival 

All things considered

 

Everyone appears to transport huge amounts of kit to establish their account for the day.

These operational bases create a kaleidoscope of primary and pastel shades. And, if you have forgotten anything, there are several shops that will provide what you might of left it home. 

 

The Pendine Holiday Park swells as people have booked their week or fortnight.

“We've got a stunning range of brand new caravans on park, with lots of fantastic modern features for you and your family to enjoy”. Proclaims Parkdean’s website. 

Year round - fantastic modern features 

 

Tell-tale accents indicate visitors have come from somewhere away. Low water and the rock pools entertain. High water? and well it’s nice to cool off and catch up.

"Eer, Gerald, did I leave the gas on?"

Ladies who layer up 

 

Summer becomes autumn, more layers are needed. Driftwood is collected for the annual November 5th bonfire. 

Someone's towel? 

The Laundrette closes for the season and looks even more forlorn than usual. Local school kids shivering wetsuits but still go into the sea. 

Just wrap up warm

 

So Pendine, with its six miles of beach is place for all seasons. 

Wrap up warm out of season and go beach combing. 

You can admire the constructions of rock, wood and rope that would flatter the premises of any Mayfair gallery.

"In order to promote geometric understanding, teachers frequently use hands-on activities. Such activities can be used to expound upon the declarative statements and theorems of geometry".*

*Copyright: Lectito Journals is an academic platform established by Lectito BV in 2015

Rock, wood and rope

            

 

 

 

Sweet Cardigan

Along the side of a low stone wall that runs along the River ²Teifi, are carved these words in Welsh.

 

Like a salt rain, like a cosy breeze, like homesick, like dawn and the sunset, there is a farewell and return together in this river.¹

 

The River Teifi is still tidal reach when passes through Cardigan town. A Norman castle (every town on the coast and close inland has one in Wales) was built in the late 11^th century. Its site was the place of the country’s first national Eisteddfod.

 

Cardigan is a welcoming place with car park ticket machines that work. The town was awash with people, in and out of shops along a busy and delightful main street. 

 

We enjoyed a drink in the Grosvenor Tavern by the bridge over the river. Whilst sitting outside in the sun we saw those words in the stone parapet. 

I asked the barman what the words meant in English; he didn’t know. However at the far end of the pub sat a man with his pint and he looked up from his book and provided me with the translation¹.

 

 

² The River Teifi (Welsh: Afon Teifi forms the boundary for most of its length between the counties of Ceredigion and Carmarthenshire, and for the final 3 miles (4.8 km) of its total length of 76 miles (122 km), the boundary between Ceredigion and Pembrokeshire. Its estuary is northwest of Cardigan. SOURCE WIKIPEDIA. Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License 3.0